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What kind of computer system should I buy? What company? Should I build one?

Quick Links:

Introduction
Chose an OEM
Desktop, Laptop or Notebook?
Should I build my own?
Build now or string it out for 6 months?
"Cost is not a problem" System Recommendations
"Good Overall" System Recommendations


Introduction

What kind of computer system should I buy? The answer to these types of questions is always another question:
"What do you plan to do with it?"

Everyone expects a computer system to do different things. Whether checking E-Mail is a top priority or the latest graphics intensive games on the shelf is your grand plan, a computer can be built to suit what you desire. Usually, each system can accomplish the "easier" tasks, but not the other way around...

For example, if all you wanted was E-Mail, a P90 satisfied that need many years ago, but attempting to play the current gaming goodness is pointless and equally frustrating with that type of computer.

A good checklist to think about with "The Good and The Reality" of each:

Chose an OEM, computer vendor or parts manufacture to meet your needs

I, personally, would not recommend a "pre-built" system for most anyone. Usually, the same components that are included in the system are the same ones that you can purchase at any computer "parts" store for less money then what the OEM is asking for them. Two examples of that would be "Falcon" and "Alienware."

Previously, components installed in "pre-built" systems were rather proprietary (plenty of times it was the connectors) and you were required to go back to that company to get replacement parts... of which were also usually overpriced.

That is no longer the case for most vendors. Standards have been established, and for the most part, adhered to.

The Good:
One good thing about the large PC integrators is the "easy to access, always available, mostly helpful" tech support. If you have a requirement that you absolutely need someone on the other end of the phone to give you that answer to a question about your PC... The Big Guys are the only way to go...

The Reality:
Unfortunately, from the tech support questions that fill my inbox on a daily basis that begin with:

"I just purchased a new (insert company here) computer and I am having problems... Their tech support blames others or is very unhelpful... Can you help?"

I have concluded that the "extra money" that is out of your pocket for a brand new "blah" computer should be better spent on higher quality, faster, better components or education on how to solve the simple problems. Trust me when I say that, usually, the only answers the tech support people at Big Guys can solve are either defects in equipment, because they are the only ones that know the problem/solution, or "simple" problems that can be solved by you with a little research on the web or enlisting the services of your local neighborhood geek.

Desktop, Laptop, Notebook?

If you lived in California USA during the (ongoing) "power crisis," you would understand.

Power and space savings is a concern whether deciding between a desktop and a laptop or other portable PC device. If you have zero problems with "high" electricity use and have plenty of desk space, there would be no reason (other than cost) not to get a full tower PC with a high watt power supply capable of powering additions for years. Not to mention, a desk hogging 23" CRT. "Affordable" LCD's have yet to hit the price point and quality of CRT's. Probably will not for years. However, if power and space used is a factor, a portable laptop is the only way to go! Plenty of laptops have just as much capability and more when compared with equivalent desktop counterparts. Take note: Even though desktops and CRT's use much more power than LCD screens and Laptops, the majority of your power bill will be consumed with hungry appliances like an electric stove, air conditioner, and big screen TV. PC's, by comparison, are not "that" power hungry.

The Good:
Laptops are perfect for conserving power, portability and shear convenience. There is nothing like surfing the Internet from your front porch via an 802.11b wireless connection.

The Reality:
Laptops are pricey! All thinks equal; laptops are about 2 to 3 times more money. As such, they become "obsolete" just as fast as "cheaper" desktops do... but lose much more value much faster.

To cut costs, identify the components that you would settle for and make a listing of what you "can not possibly do without."

I hate cutting corners. I prefer spending the money on the "best" equipment rather than breaking cheap equipment and having down time trying to replace it.

Example: I went through 5 "cheap" $10 mice before I realized that it would be better to get an "expensive $40 mouse with a 5 year warranty attached to it... I just hated spending $40 bucks on a mouse! Funny thing is... It has lasted, so far, 2 years with zero problems. The previous mice would make it about 4 to 6 months. Always remember, most warranties do not cover "normal wear and tear" of which "cheap" products are more prone to fail with.

An example of "cost cutting" of which I feel is acceptable is figuring what your needs are and fulfilling that requirement.

If graphic design is your passion, there really is no need for a $300 polished aluminum case when you could use the money for a higher quality 21" or 23" monitor that is capable of high resolutions above 75 Hz. As a side note, you stare at the monitor constantly; you usually do not stare at the case while using your system. Spare no expense; your eyes will thank you.

If you wish to collect every song ever created and archive it on MP3, you should be checking out the largest hard drives, fast CDR/CDRW drives and a quality sound card... that $100 wireless "ergonomic" internet keyboard would then be a bad investment.

If you feel that multitasking is your specialty, get more memory! Plans may include:

  • Checking E-Mail every 5 minutes
  • Surfing the web for stock tips
  • Listening to your MP3 collection
  • Downloading important files
  • Writing a manuscript with your favorite word processor
  • Finishing the last touches on work from the office...

All at the same time! To have multiple applications running, you will need more and more memory. With the latest price drops, 1 GB of RAM is relatively cheap and will be enough to last some time. Well, at least until the "next" version of Windows hits the streets.

The current crop of computer games (actually, past and present) require extreme processing power of the graphics card... not the CPU. Sparing no expense on a fast card with mega memory has much more value than a top of the line CPU and "onboard" video.

The Good:
Quality components are everywhere. Information on those components, including reviews from people that have used them is more abundant and easily accessible via the Internet than ever!

The Reality:
Quality, performance, and stability do not come cheap. "Budget" PC vendors can afford to sell "low cost" PC's for a reason: Quality is not the finest. If you want the best, you must be willing to pay for it.

Should I build my own?

My opinion? Yes. Really, it is not that difficult. Trust me when I say that I am not mechanically inclined. I do, however, enjoy tearing stuff apart to "see" what makes things work.

The PC's guts are all based on smaller components that are connected some how to all the others. The cool thing is that almost all connectors go on either one way or have only one application. For example, you cannot plug your hard drive into a floppy connector and vice versa.

Instructions on exactly how to do this are available everywhere, but a great source of information is the manuals that come with your products. From what I have experienced, each expansion card (sound, Ethernet) usually contain a "getting started" guide or an "installation" manual to be able to walk you through the process. I am rather partial to AsusTek when it comes to Motherboards for many reasons, but for a new comer to the exciting world of building your own PC's, AsusTek manuals are by far the most helpful I have ever viewed.

The Good:
Pride in knowing "you built it." Did I mention that you will also know what components are in your system? I cannot count how many times I have asked "what CPU or graphics card" do you have and the replay is "Dell, Gateway, Compaq, etc." Wow.

Another good reason is the "ease" of being able to upgrade in the future. I will admit that I am not totally aware of the Big Guys warranty policies, but from what I have been told, "if you open your case, your warranty is void." If you build your system from components, each manufacture has their own warranty policy. Sometimes quite a good one.

The Reality:
Building your own system takes time. Time to research what you want. Time to open up your existing case to not be "scared" of the future (disclaimer: doing so may void your warrantee). Time to put all the hand picked components together to make a running system.

Build now or string it out for 6 months?

There is no rule that says you have to purchase all of your components from the same vendor, nor even at the same time. But, I do recommend that you purchase your components to build your system "at one time" and not wait months between components. Mainly it is due to the rapid improvement on components and the even more rapid drop in price for components that have been out "for awhile." A Motherboard for $153 now may be $110 down the road "when you actually install it."

Now for the burning question... What does Black Viper Recommend?

Opinions are just that. Opinions. If yours differs, great! That means you are a thinker and not a follower, but if you are still unsure of "what" to do because of the lack of information, take into consideration what I have here. Two configurations will follow and (hopefully) be updated often:

Cost is no object and Overall good system.

Note: I will not post exact prices due to the volatile nature of the PC industry. I just do not have the time to keep up. The prices are "approximately" what the manufacture says right now. I will also not post "exact" links to the manufactures web sites. From my experience, they tend to change often and I can not baby-sit the URL's as much as I would like to.

Updated November 29, 2003

Cost is Not a Problem System Recommendations:

Case: I prefer Addtronics. Quality power supplies coupled with a well-built case equals my satisfaction.

  • Addtronics Full Tower Server Case (approx $200 to $300)
  • Enlight Corp Tower Case (approx $100 to $300)

CPU: Intel. Why? Read my Rant here:

  • Pentium 4 3.06 GHz w/ 533MHz bus speed. (From $400 to $600)
  • Pentium 4 3.2GHz w/ 800MHz bus speed. (From $400 to $600)

Motherboard: I like AsusTek, as explained in the article. Never had a lick of troubles.

  • AsusTek P4T533-C is based on Intel 850E. Includes 533MHz FSB, 4 RIMM (RDRAM) slots for PC800/PC1066 memory, 4X AGP, 5 PCI, USB 2.0, optional LAN and audio. (approx $175)
  • AsusTek P4C800 is based on Intel 875P. Includes 800MHz FSB, 4 slots for PC3200 memory (DDR400), 8X AGP, 5 PCI, USB 2.0, and 10/100/1000 LAN NIC. (approx $230)

Memory: RAMBUS It is the only thing the P4T533-C motherboard will take.

  • 1 GB of PC1066 from a "reputable" manufacturer. Kingston or Toshiba are good choices. Note: Toshiba may supply chips but may not actually make the modules for resale. (approx $110 to $150 for 512 MB)
  • 1 GB of PC3200 (DDR400) from a "reputable" manufacturer. Kingston or Toshiba are good choices. Note: Toshiba may supply chips but may not actually make the modules for resale. (approx $110 to $150 for 512 MB)

Graphics card: You now have the choice of nVidia or ATI, as of right now. Most manufacturers go by the "reference" board for nVidia and usually follow along with the same "numbering" or "model" system nVidia does. What does that mean? Only differences in the cards are usually looks (different color PCB's) or software added.
Check around for the best value for your situation. Note: Do not get any card labeled "MX." You have been warned.

  • ATI Radeon 9800 XT 256 MB (approx $500)
  • nVidia GeForce FX 5900 AGP w/ 256 MB memory. (approx $400)

Hard Drives: I love Maxtor. Good warranty and support service for returns (1 of 12 failed me) with rapid return for little down time. As opposed to Western Digital, I have had 4 of 6 fail and gave the drives away to a friend because I got sick of dealing with them.

  • Dual Maxtor 120 GB UATA 133 running at 7200 RPM. (approx $110 to $150 each)
  • Dual Maxtor 120 GB Serial ATA running at 7200 RPM. (approx $110 to $150 each)

Note: I do not recommend SCSI due to lack of "easy" setup and still rather high costs, even for a "money is no object" system. SCSI is meant for the file/application server department... not the workstation. If you really want to geek out and spend three times the money for the same amount of storage space, SCSI is your option.

CD/DVD drive: Really, there is no reason to get a CD drive. Get DVD instead. They are about the same speed when it comes down to transfer power, anyway.

  • Toshiba 16X DVD drive ATAPI (IDE) (approx $125)

CDR/CDRW: This is subject to much debate. Plenty of opinions, but I have not had any troubles with my drive.

  • TEAC 512E 12 X 10 X 32 ATAPI (IDE) (approx $150)

Monitor: Get the biggest and best you can afford. LCD's still cannot match the quality of CRT's. I like Viewsonic or if cost "really" is no object, get a Sony.

  • Viewsonic 22" CRT P225f (approx $500 to $700)
  • Sony 24" Trinitron CRT GDM-FW900 (approx $1800)

Sound Card: Soundblaster by Creative has been the reigning champ in my book for many moons. I tend not to bother with anyone else.

Network Card: 3com has been my choice of Networking gear for some time. Unfortunately, you pay "much" for the name and "life time warranty." Well worth it, in my humble opinion.

  • 3com 905C TX-M 10/100 ethernet NIC (approx $50 to $70)

Battery Backup: I do not trust my equipment with anything other than APC. Get the largest UPS you can afford and ensure that it puts out enough power to support all of your equipment.

  • APC BackUPS Pro 650 (approx $220 to $250)

Accessories that are all personal preference are:

  • Mouse: (yeah, yeah, M$) Microsoft optical mouse. (No balls.)
  • Keyboard: Logitech Deluxe 104.
  • Joystick: (yeah, yeah... M$ again ) Microsoft Sidewinder Precision Pro. Best joystick that I have used.
  • Modem: Anything but a "WinModem." 3com are good bets.

Good Overall System Recommendations:

Case: I prefer Addtronics or Enlight. Quality power supplies coupled with a well-built case equals my satisfaction for both companies.

  • Mid Tower Case (approx $50 to $100)

CPU: Intel. Why? Read my Rant here:

  • Pentium 3 1.0 GHz. The Pentium 3 is still a very valuable CPU and coupled with quality components can out perform a "cheap" P4 system. Understand that if you "check E-Mail and surf the net," unlike the opinion of your salesman working on commission, you do not need a nuclear powered system.

Motherboard: I like AsusTek, as explained in the article. Never had a lick of troubles.

  • AsusTek TUSL2-C - supports the Pentium 3 1.0 GHz CPU mentioned above.

Memory: PC133 SDRAM It is the only thing the above motherboard will take.

  • 512 MB of PC133 from a "reputable" manufacturer. Kingston or Toshiba are good choices. Note: Toshiba may supply chips but may not actually make the modules for resale.

Graphics card: Nothing but nVidia, as of right now (for the "low end"). Most manufacturers go by the "reference" board and usually follow along with the same "numbering" or "model" system nVidia does. What does that mean? Only differences in the cards are usually looks (different color PCB's) or software added.
Check around for the best value for your situation. Note: Do not get any card labeled "MX." You have been warned.

  • nVidia GeForce 3 AGP w/ 64 MB memory.

Hard Drives: I love Maxtor. Good warranty and support service for returns (1 of 12 failed me) with rapid return for little down time. As apposed to Western Digital (cheaper for a reason), I have had 4 of 6 fail and gave the drives away to a friend because I got sick of dealing with them.

  • Maxtor 80 GB UATA 133 running at 7200 RPM. (approx $80 to $120)

CD/DVD drive: Really, there is no reason to get a CD drive. Get DVD instead. They are about the same speed when it comes down to transfer power, anyway.

  • Toshiba 16X DVD drive ATAPI (IDE) (approx $100)

CDR/CDRW: This is subject to much debate. Plenty of opinions, but I have not had any troubles with my drive.

  • TEAC 512E 12 X 10 X 32 ATAPI (IDE) (approx $120)

Monitor: Get the biggest and best you can afford. LCD's still cannot match the quality of CRT's. I like Viewsonic or if cost "really" is no object, get a Sony.

  • Viewsonic "what ever size" but try to get a "professional" model... higher picture quality coupled with higher refresh rates with very little added cost.

Sound Card: Soundblaster by Creative has been the reigning champ in my book for many moons. I tend not to bother with anyone else.

Network Card: 3com has been my choice of Networking gear for some time. Unfortunately, you pay "much" for the name and "life time warranty." Well worth it, in my humble opinion, but to cut costs, you can use a D-link or Linksys card to "get the job done" for much less.

  • 3com 905C TX-M 10/100 ethernet NIC (approx $70)
  • Dlink 530+ (approx $10 to $20)

Battery Backup: I do not trust my equipment with anything other than APC. Get the largest UPS you can afford and ensure that it puts out enough power to support all of your equipment.

  • APC BackUPS Pro 350 (approx $80 to $120)

Accessories that are all personal preference are:

  • Mouse: (yeah, yeah, M$) Microsoft optical mouse. (No balls.)
  • Keyboard: Logitech Deluxe 104.
  • Joystick: (yeah, yeah... M$ again ) Microsoft Sidewinder Precision Pro. Best joystick that I have used.
  • Modem: Anything but a "WinModem." 3com are good bets.

"Have you tweaked your OS lately?"

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Original content created: August 10, 2002
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